Phulkari, a rural tradition of handmade embroidery, literally meaning “flower work ", was performed by women in Punjab (North-west India & Pakistan) during the 19th century and till the beginning of the 20th century. Even though the textile industry is imitating this art with the help of machines, phulkari disappeared in its original form after the Partition of 1947, which had a dramatic impact on divided Punjab. Other socio-economical reasons like lack of interest in manual work, less profit, absence of training and industrialisation also dealt a blow to this ancient art. Probably brought to the Indian Subcontinent by the Jats of Central Asia in ancient times, phulkari was a part of every important occasion, be it weddings, birth or religious functions.
Generally practiced by a family for their personal use, the art of completing a phulkari work signified the transition of a girl to womanhood.
The word phulkari usually indicates a shawl that has been loomed and embroidered to cover women's heads or to be displayed in a gurudwara (Sikh temple). This tradition was often associated with the Sikh heritage, but as it was also practiced by Hindus and Muslims, it happens to be more geographically specific.
Umeed is working towards reinventing this traditional art of handmade phulkari by creating avenues of employment and social empowerment for rural women through its five social and economic development centers in surrounding villages of Sangrur.
Umeed has been running these centers for the past three years where around 100 women are earning their livelihood and thus, become socially empowered. These women receive training in embroidery and are taught the latest trends in this craft. The diversification of the art has been achieved through the manufacture of various articles such as clutches, stoles, cushion covers etc. Continuous research and development in colour schemes, patterns and threads by designers help these women polish their phulkari skills. Phulkari is now a hot favourite with the fashion brigade. Actress Kareena Kapoor wore a beautiful phulkari suit in the film, Jab We Met, while designer Manish Malhotra's latest collection for Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week - titled ‘Threads of Emotions’ - was inspired by phulkari. Infact, phulkari is slowly, but surely, becoming one of the hottest trends of 2013. Umeed is proud to help bringing high fashion Phulkari products to its clientele.
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